🔗 Share this article Each Chef Ought to Train Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on List of London’s Leading Restaurants. Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London. An Shocking Honour This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked. “I’m completely surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list. The Character of Modesty The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner. The Star Offering: Tantuni In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality. It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside. The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony. Beyond the Basic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour. Surpassing the Titans Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations. Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price. A Creed of Warmth The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner. “I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”. A Journey of Hard Work In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son. Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects. A Recognition for the Culture The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.